I like this heavyweight woven silk for the diagonal elements that emerge from a strictly horizontal and vertical design. Producing this very rational pattern in a moody violet and aubergine palette, however, feels very Japanese to me. The variegated colors in the warp yarns and the slubs in the weft give the design a natural, organic feel that softens the geometry of the weave pattern.

The lining comes from another vintage kimono that I disassembled, and has a wonderfully shiny luminescence. This woven damask silk also has a very smart, modern geometric design that telegraphs an edgy confidence on the part of the wearer.

The batting is wool; the dress form has a size 40 chest; and the sizing is equivalent to a medium-large. This iteration of my bomber jacket pattern has some gathering at the hips, and minimal quilting on the interior.